Saturday 1 December 2012

Festival Story 1, Part 1: Sightings


There were two white cardboard plaques fastened with rubbish bag ties to a tree, some kind of paperbark, maybe a Melaleuca. On one of the plaques were the letters EW, in pink, and on the other LM, in green. Steven estimated the distance from which he had seen them clearly to be thirty or forty metres. Standing at the tree now, appreciative of the shade it afforded from the midday heat, he touched the lettering on both plaques as if to confirm that his vision hadn’t failed him. It hadn’t. The letters seemed to be cooler than the bare cardboard; Steven shivered with elation and with chill as he pitched his arms aloft. Kick drums thudded a long way off. He could see. He could see!

Some people passed him by, smiling. The three women were wearing brown and dark khaki Bedouin skirts, festooned by leather belts that looked like broken gun holsters, and they had water bladders on their backs and Henna on their bare feet and hands and more holster cuffs around their wrists, and Nepalese scarves over their dreadlocked heads. When the man, whose checkered red Indian pantaloons finished above his ankles and whose sandals were of the style worn by men in Marrakesh, and on whose concave chest a thin triangle was tattooed, inside which the third eye blazed pallid blue like an iceberg, spoke to the women in Hebrew, Steven understood that they were Israeli. There were always a lot of Israelis at these kind of festivals. It was a of rite of passage, one had told him on the Market Stage at Rainbow Serpent some years ago, for young Jews to travel abroad after military service – three years for men, two for women – which was not only compulsory but real: where were the post-conscription Norwegians, the Danes, the Swiss, the Fins? Add to that a love of the harder and more unhinged styles of psytrance – embroidered into the cultural fabric by the likes of Infected Mushroom and the Iboga Records stable of artists – and you had the quintessential electronic dance music hippies. Because of his long, mousey curls, Israelis had often mistaken Steven for one of their own. It had been his ticket into the sexy underpants – and hippies did wear lingerie – of scores of Jewish girls, whom he found attractive but quite brusque to talk to, and usually outright rude when they were in groups.

This time, however, the Israelis had smiled at him. Maybe it was the mistaken smile of kinship again, but Steven thought it more probable that they had seen his triumphant outstretching, and in it, the way New Agers often did, seen a kind of involuntary homage to beneficent Mother Earth, or Pachamama or Gaia, or one of the other names – almost always female – that were ascribed to the great wheels of creation and destruction, life and death. The smell of incense wafted into his nostrils; Petar Dundov’s Oasis and its magnificent refrains played over in his mind. Then there was nothing except for a wordless sense of wellbeing. From the tree Steven could almost make out the canvas weave on the teepees at the lifestyle village, which was still some way downhill, by the Billabong. He could see the ripples on the Billabong water, the throng of human bodies, most of them not white as his was, standing and sitting and swimming and floating on their backs in it, and the blueness of the big water lilies. Somebody had assured him yesterday that the lilies were edible, but Steven had to yet to find a reason to try them. He decided, adjusting the towel around his neck, to tear a piece of one off and eat it while he swam. It smelled piquantly of mud closer to the water. The crocodile warnings staked to the muddy banks were so clear and steeped in sunshine that they seemed to glow.

*

The lily tore in a perfectly straight segment, and felt like tissue paper that had been dusted with fine-milled flour. With his feet grazing the bottom, Steven held the lily roots as he chewed. Sure, it was edible, but it wasn’t good. Not poisonous, just not good, and how many things in nature were ‘edible’ in that crude sense? Mud, and maybe the smell of the compost toilets, swirled around him on the breeze. The sunscreen on his shoulders face felt slick and poorly rubbed-in; it was probably still white.  The sky was so clear that it looked whitish, and was full of particulate matter – atomized flowers, maybe lilies, dandelions, leaves, flies (dragon, march, butter, blow) – which Steven could not only detect but distinguish from one another like coordinates on a map of unsurpassed complexity. He could even have counted it all, had he wanted to. But he didn’t want to. He was still recovering from the previous night, and the heat was fierce.

At the centre of the Billabong, an enormous white orb bobbled, anchored to the spot by wires and a steel base that looked like an eggcup. A man was breaststroking towards it. The orb looked to be made of polyethylene and the base had attracted a thick perimeter of water grasses and tumbleweeds. The man’s bare arse rose above the turbid surface with every frog kick. Steven swam out a little further, towards the crocodile netting, to get a better look. When it was too deep to stand up he treaded water and watched the urgent movements of the body, the pallour of it, the absurd buoyancy of the black dreadlocks, the plant matter enveloping the man as he reached the orb. Then a whistle sounded, first a protracted blow and later a series of sort bursts, and there were two men under the lifeguard’s gazebo shouting ‘Get back! Get back!


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